From the frame up this is how the best Park Model is built. Please Visit our Slide Show.     During this factory tour you will watch a cabin go from a frame to a fully built park model cabin.  You will follow the cabin through all of the different stations and see what we do and what is different about our company.  You will see fist hand why we say we build the "best park models" in the industry.      Our standard frame is a 10" I - beam.      Axles are added depending on weight.  The unit you are following through the factory is an extremely heavy unit and has 4 axles. Click on Picture for larger view, then use the back button in the browser

Our floors are built out of 2 x 6's 16" OC and the perimeter band is a double wrapped 2 x 6.  This is the first step toward giving the unit a firm structural rigidity.      An almost finished floor ready to come into the building.  The floor is insulated and all central ducting is put into place in this station.

This is the connection of the side wall to the end wall.  Sandwiched between them is the 3/4" T & G paneling.

Frame enters wall department.  All exterior and interior walls are raised in this section.  The walls are pre-built on tables and all set at one time.  The exterior walls and some interior walls have already been paneled at this point.  This allows us to control the quality of the paneling better and with the paneling behind the connecting walls it adds to the over all structural rigidity.      From this angle you can see the double 2 x 4 top plate and the bottom 2 x 4 bottom plate.  All of the walls are 16" O.C.

When we build the floor of our porches we don't let the pressure treated deck boards run under the wall like some other manufacturers.  This is done in case a deck board ever needs to be replaced it can simply be unscrewed and not cut out from underneath the wall.  We use 7/8" pressure treated decking on the floors of all our porches and when the customer requires a screened in porch the screen is even run underneath the deck for a a secure bug free enclosure.      On a cottage that is receiving a linoleum floor we mud the seams of the sub floor and completely sand the sub floor to minimize anything that might cut the linoleum.  This is another example of something we do that can not be seen when the cottage is completed but is definitely something everyone should do to give the cottage and the linoleum longevity.

The frame is now leaving the floor department.  A moisture barrier has been put down over the linoleum to protect it during construction.  The moisture barrier will be cut out in final finish but it will remain underneath the walls which is another barrier from the elements in your home.

One of the options that we offer is the metal underbelly.  Instead of using the fiber mesh bottom board we can use a metal underbelly which acts as an almost impervious rodent shield.  It also holds the insulation better with less sag.

Walls are secured to the floor with 6" SIP screws every 24"

We locate all of the plumbing in the floor between the insulation and the sub floor.  This helps in cold weather climates to keep the plumbing from freezing.  Our standard plumbing is 40 grade PVC and Pex plumbing. http://www.ppfahome.org/pex/faqpex.html Our Pex is also broken up by color, white for cold and red for hot.